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PREFACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
xix |
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Part I IN THE LAND OF A MILLION ELEPHANTS |
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Chapter 1 Leaving Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
San Francisco, February 19, 1956, 10:00 pm Retrospective
Bridgewater College
International Voluntary Services
Brethren Volunteer Service
Starting out in the Snow
Across the U.S. in a New Chevy
Marking Tim in Modesto
Haolis in Honolulu
Twenty-four Hours in Tokyo
Happy in Hong Kong
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3
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Chapter 2 Bangkok: "City of the Angels". . . . . . . . . .
Bangkok, February 23, 1956
The Atlanta Mansion
New Road
The Dubious Doctor
The Commissary
Chinatown
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha
The Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Bangkok Belly
The U.S. Aid Community
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16
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Chapter 3 Into the Kingdom of the
Three-Headed Elephant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vientiane, Laos, February 28, 1956
The Five-Minute History of Laos
Day One in Laos
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32
32 |
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Chapter 4 Ascent to "Paradise Hill". . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Beechcraft
The Plain of Jars
Phon Savanh
Living in the Post Office
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38 |
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Chapter 5 Learning to Live in Laos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Hill Station
Surveying the Site
Meeting the Local Population
The Five-Day Market
The Wedding
The Hungry Rat Incident
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45
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Chapter 6 Winning Hearts and Minds. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Missionaries
The King of Méo
Xieng Khouang Town
English Classes
At the Movies
The Library
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53 |
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Chapter 7 Willy Haas and the Opium Smugglers. . . .
The Redoubtable Willy Haas
Willy's Women
Restless Cheese
The French Bungalow
The Opium Trade
Flying French
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60 |
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Chapter 8 Country Roads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Getting the New Jeep
The Road to Vientiane
Up the Friendship Highway
My First Beer
Vientiane to Phon Savanh by Road
Adventures with Betel Juice
The Road to Luang Prabang
The Winter Festival
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68
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Chapter 9 One Big Happy Family. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
New Arrivals
Economic Development: Different Strokes
Clyde's Affairs
The Piano
The Royal Visit
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81 |
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Chapter 10 "Unto the Least of These". . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Baby Clinics
The French Doctor
The Trip from Hell
Operation Brotherhood
Dr. Tom Dooley
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88 |
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Chapter 11 Coming of Age in Bangkok. . . . . . . . . . . .
The Fires of Youth
The Pam Pam
Vientiane by Night
The Initiation
Moral Temporizing
The Floating Market
Getting it Right |
96
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Chapter 12 Singapore: "City of the Lions". . . . . . . . .
Rest and Recuperation
The Oriental Hotel
Down the Malay Peninsula
Seductive Singapore
President Lee Kuan Yew
Kuala Lumpur
Playing in Panang |
106 |
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Chapter 13 Among the Hill Tribes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Good Intentions
The Bulls
The Méo (Hmong) and Opium
The Bull Fights
The Black Thai Refugees
Lessons in Ethnolinguistics
Asian Religions
Sipping (Rice) Cider through a Straw |
116 |
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Chapter 14 Southeast Asia on $10 a Day. . . . . . . . . . .
Hong Kong, November 4-9, 1957
The Floating Restaurant
The Dinner Date
Hong Kong to Manila by Sea
The Philippines, November 11-16, 1957
Baguio in the Rain
The Chicken or the Egg?
South Vietnam, November 16-21, 1957
Buon Ma Thuot
Cambodia, November 21-24,1957
Unpronounceable Phnom Penh
The Mercurial Prince
Penh's Mountain
North to Siem Reap
Awesome Angkor Wat
The Mysterious Faces of the Bayon
Angkor Demystified
Back to Home Base, November 24-27, 1957 |
128
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Chapter 15 Buddhist Robes and Pagan Rockets. . . .
Becoming a Monk
Buddhist Rules
Comparative Religion
The Cremation
The Rocket Festival
PHOTOS |
154 |
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Part II FROM LAOS TO LONDON
BY THE SEAT OF MY PANTS
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Chapter 16 Leaving Laos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Schemes of Adventure
Job Hunting
The Foreign Service Exam
The Farewell "Baci"
Acquiring the Motorcycle
Final Decision
False Starts
D(eparture)-Day
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181
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Chapter 17 Bangkok Interlude. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chinese Burlesque
"Ubon Tobacco"
Crashing the RBSC
The Australian Tutor
The Constipated Elephant
Begging for a Burmese Visa
The Hazardous Haircut
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192 |
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Chapter 18 Bound for Burma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Victory at Victoria Point
Bucolic Burma
Metteng the "Matang"
Up the Tenasserim Coast
Kipling Country
Elephant Feat
Impounded in Rangoon
The Shwedagon Pagoda
Red Tape in Rangoon
My British Benefactor |
201 |
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Chapter 19 On the Road to Mandalay. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ordination of the Novices
Mystical Mandalay
The Royal Palace
Mandalay Hill
Armed Train to Monywa
Man Overboard
Up the Chindwin by River Boat
Hot Yarns in Kalewa
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215
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Chapter 20 India: From the Himalayas
to the Ganges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manipur State
A Lincoln Fan in Imphal
Into the Himalayas
The Kaziranga Game Preserve
Elephant Safari
The Itinerant Austrian
Up to Darjeeling
Mt. Herman School
The "Dak" Bungalows
Benares (Varanasi) on the Ganges
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227
227 |
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Chapter 21 The Taj Mahal and Mr. Banarse. . . . . . . . .
The Challenge of Indian Roads
Agra and the Taj Mahal
The Singh Brothers
The Case of the Cantankerous Cow
The Reluctant Sale
Delhi Old and New
The Diversity of Delhi
Giving Up my Wheels
John Williams and Mr. Banarse's Bus
In a Sikh Temple
Dawdling in Delhi
The Social Disease
The Iron Man of India |
240
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Chapter 22 Mutiny on the Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Departure from Delhi
The Bus Trip from Hell
Chandigarh
The Mutiny
The Traveling Circus
Across the Pakistani Border
Swapping Radiators
Salvation in a Chevrolet
Entering Iran
Abandoning the Bus
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255 |
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Chapter 23 Teheran to Istanbul via Mount Ararat. . . .
A Treacherous Truck Trip
Quaker Hospitality
Touring Teheran
Teheran to Tabriz
The Shrunken Bus
Mount Ararat
The Iranian-Turkish Border
The Train from Erzurum
Istanbul on the Bosporus |
267 |
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Chapter 24 The Great Orient Express. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A Glimpse of Greece
Yugoslavia — Mixed Reacions
Visiting Venice
Florence the Beautiful
The Leaning Tower
Rome in a Nutshell |
280
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Chapter 25 From the Eternal City to the
City of Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cosmopolitan Geneva
What's a Porsche?
The Brethren Abroad
My Introduction to Paris
The Subtle Charms of Paris
Goodbye John and Hello Bill
G.I.s in Europe
An Idea is Born
On my Own in Paris
Cross-Cultural Mis-Communication |
288
288 |
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Chapter 26 Around Europe by Simca and
C-Rations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Fruit of the Vine
Bunkers in Biarritz
Sneaking into Spain
In Search of Flamenco
The Bullfight
Roving the Riviera
Illegal Entry into Italy
The Unintended Hospitality of the U.S. Military
Barhopping through Germany
The Porsche Factory
Entranced by a Triumph
Peeking through the Iron Curtain
Dutch Maidens
The Brussels Fair
The 24 Hours of Le Mans
Triumph of the TR-3 |
302
302 |
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Chapter 27 London to New York on the
Ile-de-France. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Mother Country
On the Loose in London
Cultural Self-Improvement
The London Embassy
Crossing the Atlantic
Return of the Prodigal
Conclusions
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320 320
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